This driver requires a custom PCB to have 4 independent channels of 700mA each, intended to power the 4 dies of an RGBW XM-L color (or other RGBW LEDs). It uses software PWM at 2 kHz. It's operation requires a momentary switch (electronic switch) connected to the board. When off, the quiescent current is only 300nA (that's 0.3ľA), that would theoretically take a thousand years to discharge a 2600mAh cell. The board has a diameter of 17 mm with components on both sides; special boards for the Roche F6, Yupard 16340 and Skilhunt H02/R/C are also available. I recommend using (multiple layers of) d-c-fix diffuser film for color mixing (a piece of that is included).
Those drivers are for input and output voltage of 3-5 V (lower brightness at 3V), best suited for one Li-ion cell or multiple Li-ion cells in parallel, and one XM-L color or similar. Slave boards could be connected to drive other color-LEDs at higher currents, or more AMC7135 can be stacked.
The different main modes are accessed from off state, each with it's own click pattern. Each mode then has it's own click commands to change parameters etc. To change the main mode you have to switch it off first (with a short click).
In the following a "T" refers to a tap, i.e. a short click, while "H" refers to a press&hold. "TTH" for example then means two quick taps followed by a press&hold.
From off state, the following modes can be accessed using their respective click commands:
In this mode, H cycles forward through the chromatic circle (red>yellow>green>cyan>blue>purple>red>...), TH (short click immediately followed by a press&hold) cycles backwards, so you can easily set your desired color. There's a short pause at the pure colors (R,B,G) to make hitting them easier. TT (double click) starts or stops a much slower automatic cycling (direction can be changed by H / TH). Brightness can be changed down (TTTH, halves output) and up (TTH, doubles); note that the PWM resolution is quite bad in the lowest modes and causes steps in the color transition. T switches off.
New versions since Nov. 2014: Changing brightness (TTH/TTTH) is now smooth like in white mode.
since Dec. 2014: includes a 'flickering candle' mode in the simple&strobe group.
probably the most useful modes for everyday purpose (more for indoors due to only 700mA and the diffuser), just white (using the white die). H and TH ramp the brightness up & down, roughly visually linear and smoothly (except for the lowest modes). Low is quite low. T switches off.
|TT||simple modes and blinkies
This mode has several simple sub-modes, use H and TH to cycle through them forward and backward. The modes are red -- green -- blue -- EU yellow warning strobe -- EU blue emergency vehicle strobe -- US red/blue police strobe -- wild color strobe -- constant cyan with slowly blinking red (emphasizes red objects). T switches off.
|TH||full RGBW mode
This mode lets you change every die's brightness individually, so you can mix every possible color. H and TH increase and decrease the current channel's brightness. TT changes the channel (R>G>B>W>R...), TTT backwards; a short blink indicates the active channel. T switches off.
The light doesn't react on pressing the switch any more (other than a short blink to indicate that) except for TTT again to reactivate.
|TTTT||battery level indicator
This mode also has 2 sub-modes (switch between them with H), one displays the voltage simply as a color: 4.5V-white, 4.0V-blue, 3.5V-green, 3.0V-red, intermediate colors for intermediate voltages. The other mode indicates the voltage by blinking; red for whole volts, green for tenths, blue for hundredths, e.g. 3*red, 6*green, 2*blue means 3.62V. NOTE that the driver clearly does not have an absolute accuracy of 0.01V! It may actually be several % off! So that last digit is only good for a direct comparison etc. T switches off.
|All of the above modes have their own memory, they'll start with the settings used last time.
And then there are 2 quite special modes...
|TTTTTTTT||measure cell capacity (8 fast taps)
This driver can measure the cell's capacity (in Ah) and stored energy (in Wh) with a load of 700mA down to 2.9V. Insert a full cell, activate this mode. It will then run for a few hours till the cell is drained and go into sleep mode. Press the button and it will tell the capacity and energy in blinks like the battery indicator above, i.e. a short blue pre-blink to indicate capacity readout, 2*red, 5*green, 1*blue -> 2.51 Ah (= 2510 mAh), then a green pre-blink to indicate energy, then 8*red, 4*green, 7*blue -> 8.47 Wh. Can be repated by another tap. Exit this mode by changing the battery. This is the only mode that can't be exited by T. The above notes about accuracy also apply here.
|TTTTTT||measure internal resistance (including contact resistances) (6 fast taps)
This mode allows to measure the internal resistance of the cell, but including the contact resistances. It will light up for ~10s, pause, and then show the resistance by some blinks in mOhm, e.g. 1*red, 7*green, 2*blue -> 172 mOhm. The measurement is repeated over and over, T to switch off.
The battery must have sufficient voltage for the measurement, the measurement will be aborted (some red blinks, then switches off) if the voltage is too low. This may also happen with full cells if internal and/or contact resistances are too high. You might want to improve the contacts; the success of such measures can be seen in the measurement results. The above notes about accuracy also apply here.
There's an undocumented mode (TTH). The owner might try to find out him/herself what it does. There's also an easter-egg mode well hidden... Don't worry, you won't find it.